Have any of you visited Kiyomizu-dera? It has long been loved by many Japanese and has attracted numerous worshippers over the years. Kiyomizu-dera is so popular that it even gave rise to the proverb, "to jump off the stage at Kiyomizu," indicating how deeply it has been ingrained in the hearts of the Japanese people for ages. As a result, Kiyomizu-dera remains one of Japan's premier tourist destinations, bustling with visitors to this day. Nowadays, it also welcomes a significant number of tourists from abroad every year, who are impressed by its beauty. But do you know why Kiyomizu-dera was originally built, or that it has burned down completely several times in the past? In this article, we will introduce some lesser-known history and highlights of Kiyomizu-dera.
The history of Kiyomizu-dera
Long ago, in the year 778 during the Nara period, there was a monk named Kenshin. One night, he received a mysterious divine message in his dream, instructing him to "follow the Kizu River and seek the sacred water." Guided to the current location of Kyoto, on Mount Otowa, Kenshin discovered a spring shining with golden brilliance. Tracing its source, he encountered an old man radiating a mystical light, En'eigyōja. This radiance was not merely a reflection but emanated from his aura. En'eigyōja had continued his ascetic practices by the waterfall on the mountain and had astonishingly reached the age of 200.
En'eigyōja told Kenshin, "I have been waiting for your arrival for a long time. Please protect this sacred place and enshrine a statue of Kannon here." Then, he vanished. Deeply moved by this spiritual encounter, Kenshin carved a statue of Kannon from a sacred tree and placed it in En'eigyōja's hermitage, subsequently changing his name to Enchin. This marks the origin story of Kiyomizu-dera. Initially, it was merely a hermitage and not yet a temple.
Two years after Kenshin received the divine message, in 780, a robust man named Sakanoue no Tamuramaro visited Mount Otowa. While hunting deer in hopes of his wife's recovery, he encountered Enchin by the Otowa waterfall, realized the sin of taking lives, and ceased hunting to descend the mountain. Later, Tamuramaro made significant contributions to pacifying the Tohoku region and became a shogun. He donated his residence and established a temple on Mount Otowa, which is the beginning of the Kiyomizu-dera that continues to this day. Kiyomizu-dera records En'eigyōja as the founder, Enchin as the opener, and Sakanoue no Tamuramaro as the patron. These complex backgrounds form the history of Kiyomizu-dera.
Subsequently, Kiyomizu-dera was officially recognized by the imperial court and received substantial funding, gradually evolving from a small hermitage into a magnificent temple with large main halls and stages. However, being a wooden structure, Kiyomizu-dera suffered significant damage over its more than 1240-year history, including nine instances of being burnt down. Particularly during the Ōnin War in 1469, not only the city of Kyoto but also Kiyomizu-dera was severely damaged. At that time, the imperial court lacked the financial resources for reconstruction, so a monk named Gan'ami desperately solicited donations from the people to rebuild the temple over several decades. There was another fire in 1629, but the main hall was rebuilt in 1633 with donations from Tokugawa Iemitsu, and this remains the current main hall.
The history of Kiyomizu-dera is not only about the age or beauty of its buildings but also about its "history and culture," which has been cherished by the Japanese people for many years. As a testament to this, Kiyomizu-dera was registered as a World Heritage Site on December 14, 1994, as part of the "Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto."
Highlights of Kiyomizu-dera
Let's take a look at the highlights of Kiyomizu-dera. Beyond the well-known stage of Kiyomizu, there are various beautiful sceneries and architectural wonders to be introduced.
Niōmon (Deva Gate)
Upon visiting Kiyomizu-dera, the first thing that catches your eye is the striking vermilion Niōmon, or Deva Gate. This "Red Gate," which serves as the main entrance, is one of the important cultural properties of Kiyomizu-dera and welcomes worshippers with a solemn atmosphere. The Niōmon has a historical background, being built partly to block the commoners' direct view of the Imperial Palace from the main hall. After being destroyed in the Ōnin War in 1469, it was rebuilt around 1500. In 2003, it underwent dismantling and repair to preserve its appearance today.
The two Nio guardian statues standing by the gate are among the largest in Kyoto, with a height of approximately 365 cm, and are believed to be made in the late Kamakura period. Their size is indeed overwhelming.
In front of Kiyomizu-dera's Niōmon, unlike the typical arrangement of Komainu (guardian lion-dogs), both statues have their mouths open in an "A-A" (both mouths open) form. Normally, Komainu are paired with one having an open mouth in an "Agyō" form, symbolizing the beginning of the universe, and the other with a closed mouth in an "Ungyō" form, symbolizing the end of the universe. However, the Komainu at Kiyomizu-dera both have their mouths open, which is said to represent the spreading of Buddha's teachings loudly. These unique Komainu were placed during the repair of the stone steps of the Niōmon in 1924 (Taisho 13). This unique arrangement is a distinctive feature at the entrance, in front of the Niōmon of Kiyomizu-dera.
The Three-Storied Pagoda
Kiyomizu-dera houses an important architectural structure that captivates visitors with its history and beauty: the Three-Storied Pagoda. Originally erected in the year 847 (the 14th year of the Jōwa era), it has been destroyed and rebuilt several times throughout history, with the current structure being reconstructed in 1632 (the 9th year of the Kan'ei era). After major repairs in 1987 (the 62nd year of the Shōwa era), the Three-Storied Pagoda had its vivid vermilion color and Momoyama-style polychrome patterns restored, reclaiming its former magnificence. Standing at approximately 31 meters tall, it is one of the largest three-storied pagodas in Japan, adding splendor to the landscape of Kiyomizu-dera.
Inside the pagoda, there are enshrined statues of Dainichi Nyorai (Vairocana Buddha) and the eight patriarchs of Shingon Buddhism, as well as esoteric Buddhist paintings, overwhelming visitors with their intricate coloring and skillful color schemes. Additionally, oni (demon) tiles are placed at each corner of the pagoda's roofs, but uniquely, a tile depicting a dragon god is placed at the southeast corner. This is considered one of the "Seven Wonders of Kiyomizu-dera." It is believed to serve as a charm against fire, positioning the water-controlling dragon in the southeast direction, which is considered to be at higher risk of fire, in deference to the fire-quelling deity of Atago Mountain, protector of Kyoto.
(Image citation: MY WAY)
The Main Hall
The heart of Kiyomizu-dera, the Main Hall, overwhelms visitors with its grand structure. What's remarkable is the stage, boasting a height of 13 meters, equivalent to a four-story building, and covering an area of 100 tatami mats. It's constructed using the "Kakezukuri" technique, which assembles the structure without the use of a single nail. Originally, this stage was set up as a venue for performing arts dedicated to the Goddess of Mercy, hosting a variety of traditional performances such as Kabuki, Sumo, and Noh, throughout its history. Even today, stage dedications continue during special events.
The phrase "to jump off the stage at Kiyomizu" originates from a tradition where jumping from this high stage symbolized a strong wish to the Goddess of Mercy. The Main Hall and its stage hold more than just architectural significance; they convey the breath of faith and culture from ancient times to the visitors of today. The view of Kyoto from this magnificent stage offers an unforgettable experience for those who visit.
Jishu Shrine
Located within the precincts of Kiyomizu-dera, Jishu Shrine is nationally known as a shrine for fulfilling romantic wishes. Flourishing as a place for love fortunes since the Edo period, it continues to attract many visitors today. Particularly in autumn, the shrine is surrounded by about 1,000 maple trees, offering a beautiful setting for those wishing to pray for love, attracting many visitors.
The shrine's principal deity, Okuninushi-no-Mikoto, is believed to bestow matchmaking blessings, and visitors often participate in love fortunes or receive amulets. Among the most popular attractions is the "Love Fortune Stones" in front of the main hall. It is said that if one can walk from one stone to another with their eyes closed, their love wish will be granted. These stones are considered relics from the Jomon period, carrying a long history.
There's also a custom of ringing the "Bell of Happiness" to pray for good relationships, and a variety of amulets await visitors. Contrary to the typical image of a quiet shrine, Jishu Shrine is characterized by its lively and bright atmosphere. The chief priest encourages visitors to pray happily and with a smile, stating, "Shrines are places where people gather to wish for happiness."
Jishu Shrine is not only for those seeking romantic fulfillment but is open to all who wish for happiness, making it a must-visit spot during a trip to Kiyomizu-dera.
(Image citation:京都散歩ナビ)
The Child-Safe Tower
The Child-Safe Tower located in Kiyomizu-dera has long been cherished by many as a focal point of faith for praying for safe childbirth. Originally situated in front of the Niōmon Gate, it was relocated to the due south of the main hall in 1911 (Meiji 44). The approach to this tower is known as Sannenzaka, also referred to as Sannenzaka, which reflects its association with safe childbirth.
Standing at approximately 15 meters tall, the tower houses a statue of Senju Kannon (Thousand-Armed Avalokiteshvara), within which a small 6-centimeter tall Kannon statue is enshrined. The origin of the Child-Safe Tower is linked to a legend that it was constructed following the prayers of Emperor Shomu and Empress Komyo, which were answered with the birth of Emperor Koken. The current tower, discovered to have been reconstructed in the late Muromachi period according to an ink inscription from 1500 (Meiō 9) found during major Heisei-era renovations, continues to be a beacon of hope for expecting parents.
(Image citation: 和遊創庵)
The Thousand Stone Buddhas
One of the highlights of Kiyomizu-dera is the overwhelming sight of more than a thousand stone Buddhas lining the hillside opposite the Jōjū-in Temple. These stone Buddhas temporarily lost their place during the early Meiji period's Haibutsu Kishaku movement (a movement to abolish Buddhism), but were brought to Kiyomizu-dera by devout citizens. The collection includes a diverse range of Buddhas from different periods and styles, such as Mahavairocana, Avalokiteshvara, Amitabha, and Sakyamuni.
In fact, these stone Buddhas were rescued and brought to Kiyomizu-dera by faithful citizens after many were destroyed or displaced during the Haibutsu Kishaku movement of the early Meiji period. The group predominantly consists of Jizo Bodhisattvas, reflecting the strong Jizo faith unique to Kyoto. These stone Buddhas, once cherished in each community, continue to be revered today, with new aprons being placed on them, indicating the ongoing deep faith in the modern era. Local volunteers still provide new aprons for the Jizo Bodhisattvas, showcasing the deep faith of the community members. The Thousand Stone Buddhas is a spot not to be missed when visiting Kiyomizu-dera, offering a glimpse into the historical background and the depth of local faith rooted in the area.
(Image citation: 清水寺公式HP)
Zuigu Hall
Located within Kiyomizu-dera, Zuigu Hall is situated along the approach path, becoming visible from the Niōmon Gate. It venerates the Great Zuigu Bodhisattva as its principal deity. The hall offers a unique experience to its visitors called the "Womb Cave" tour, which simulates the sensation of being in a mother's womb, walking in complete darkness, symbolizing rebirth and regeneration.
Pilgrims descend stairs into the underground and proceed along a pitch-dark passage, guided by the walls. Along the way, they encounter a faintly glowing Zuigu stone. By turning the stone while making a wish in their hearts, the experience becomes a mystical journey of introspection and spiritual purification, away from the hustle and bustle of daily life. Upon emerging back to the surface, many express feeling refreshed and cleansed, as if their spirits have been renewed.
(Image citation: 清水寺公式HP)
Bell Tower
The Bell Tower of Kiyomizu-dera has its origins in the Heian period, with the current structure being rebuilt in 1607 (Keichō 12). It is one of the few buildings that survived the great fire of 1629 (Kan'ei 6), hence it has been designated as an Important Cultural Property. The tower is constructed in the Momoyama style, characterized by its intricate decorations including peony and chrysanthemum carvings, as well as wooden nose pieces shaped like a tapir (baku) and an elephant.
The tower features six pillars, originally intended to support a heavy bonshō (temple bell) weighing approximately 2.3 tons, cast during the Muromachi period and inscribed with "Bunmei Jūnen (1478)," making it an Important Cultural Property. The current bell, also weighing around 2.3 tons, was donated in 2008 (Heisei 20).
The Bell Tower of Kiyomizu-dera captivates visitors with its historical significance and exquisite decorations. The profound sound of the heavy bell brings peace and tranquility to those who visit, further enhancing the serene atmosphere of Kiyomizu-dera.
(Image citation: じゃらんnet)
Access to Kiyomizu-dera
Access to Kiyomizu-dera is commonly through public transportation, focusing on routes from within Kyoto City.
Combining Train and Bus
From Kyoto Station by Bus: Take City Bus No. 206 or 100 and get off at "Kiyomizu-michi" or "Gojo-zaka." The journey takes about 15-20 minutes, costing 230 yen for adults and 120 yen for children.
Using Keihan Railway: Take the Keihan train and alight at "Kiyomizu-Gojo Station," then walk for about 20 minutes or take a bus and get off at "Kiyomizu-michi."
On Foot From Kyoto Station
t takes about 40-50 minutes to walk from Kyoto Station to Kiyomizu-dera. Start from Kyoto Tower, head east, walk north along Kawaramachi Street, cross Sanjo Bridge, and head towards Kiyomizu-michi. From Yasaka Shrine or Gion: It's about a 10-15 minute walk from Yasaka Shrine or the Gion area. Walk through the lanes of Higashiyama District from Yasaka Shrine towards Kiyomizu-dera.
By Taxi From Kyoto Station
A taxi ride from Kyoto Station to Kiyomizu-dera takes about 10 minutes, costing approximately 1,000 to 1,500 yen, depending on traffic conditions.
By Bicycle Rental Bicycles
Rental bicycles are convenient in Kyoto City. Available for rent around Kyoto Station and other locations in the city. Rates vary by shop and rental duration, but typically around 800 to 1,000 yen for a day's rental.
When planning a visit to Kiyomizu-dera, it's recommended to check the congestion level and traffic conditions in advance based on the season and time of day, and to plan a schedule with ample time. Also, as Kyoto has many tourist spots, it's crucial to plan an efficient route that includes a visit to Kiyomizu-dera.
Background of the Proverb "To Jump off the Stage at Kiyomizu"
The proverb "To jump off the stage at Kiyomizu" is used to express the sentiment of making a significant decision. Originally, it came from the actual practice of jumping off the stage, making a wish to the Kannon deity, and believing that if the wish came true, one would emerge unscathed, and even if not, one would still be promised a place in paradise.
Historical records indicate that during the Edo period, 234 people actually jumped off the stage at Kiyomizu-dera as a form of wish-making. Jumping from a height of about 13 meters (equivalent to a 4-story building), it might be assumed that all who jumped perished. However, only 15 people died from their jumps. This lower number of fatalities was because the trees beneath the stage acted as a cushion, saving many lives.
However, due to the high number of individuals jumping off the stage at Kiyomizu-dera for wish-making, this practice was prohibited by a decree from Kyoto Prefecture in 1872. Therefore, no one jumps off the stage anymore.
Summary
We have explored the history and attractions of Kiyomizu-dera. Knowing the history and highlights of popular tourist destinations can enhance the visiting experience. If you're interested, be sure to visit Kiyomizu-dera!
