Have you ever visited Dazaifu? It is one of Japan's most renowned shrines, known for enshrining Sugawara no Michizane, the god of learning, and it attracts many visitors each year who come to pray for academic success. But do you know why Dazaifu was originally constructed? And why did Sugawara no Michizane come all the way to Dazaifu in Fukuoka? This time, we will introduce the surprisingly lesser-known history of Dazaifu, its connection with Sugawara no Michizane, highlights, and trivia.
The History of Dazaifu
Once, the land of Tsukushi in Kyushu had a port where the waves of East Asia met. This place was where Japanese and continental cultures met and fused. Going back to the Yayoi period, the land of Na was known to the world through the shining golden seal with the inscription "King of Na of Wa." The land of Ito, ruled by Queen Himiko, was also part of this region. Tsukushi thrived as a center of trade and diplomacy.
However, times changed, and the crisis in Baekje brought new destiny to Tsukushi. In 660, when Baekje was on the verge of collapse, it sought aid from Japan. Empress Saimei descended to Tsukushi to rescue Baekje, but her death and the defeat at the Battle of Hakusukinoe were significant shocks to Japan.
In response to this defeat, Japan built large-scale defense facilities in Tsukushi, laying the foundation for Dazaifu. With the introduction of the Ritsuryo system, Dazaifu transformed into the center of administration and diplomacy in Japan, gradually expanding its functions and roles. The grand government office, storehouses, schools, and the Korokan flourished in Tsukushi.
However, the passage of time brought challenges to Dazaifu as well. The rebellion of Fujiwara no Hirotsugu and the outbreak of smallpox left deep scars on Dazaifu. During the Heian period, the Taira clan's influence expanded into Kyushu, gradually changing the role of Dazaifu. With the arrival of the Kamakura period, Dazaifu under the Ritsuryo system lost its functions.
Nevertheless, the spirit of Dazaifu was carried on by the Muto clan and other local powerful families. Over time, through the Nanbokucho period and the Sengoku period, Dazaifu transformed into a quiet rural village. However, its historical and cultural heritage remains cherished as Dazaifu Tenmangu.
In the Meiji period, Dazaifu village developed into Dazaifu town. Through the Showa period, the present-day city of Dazaifu was established. The flourishing Dazaifu in the land of Tsukushi continues to convey its story across time.
(Image Citation: BUSHI TRAVEL)
Dazaifu and Sugawara no Michizane
Dazaifu and Sugawara no Michizane are closely connected in Japanese history. Sugawara no Michizane was an outstanding scholar and politician of the Heian period. His talent and virtue elevated him to the high position of Udaijin (Minister of the Right). However, the political arena was always complex, and under the political pressure from Fujiwara no Tokihira, Michizane was destined for demotion. In 901, he was appointed as Dazaifu’s Vice-Governor in Kyushu.
Life in Dazaifu was vastly different from the splendor he had experienced in the capital. The official residence he was given was dilapidated, with rotten floors and a leaky roof. In this desolate environment, Michizane spent two years in despair before passing away in 903. After his death, his remains were transported by ox cart, which suddenly stopped moving at a certain place, where he was subsequently buried. This site became the present-day Dazaifu Tenmangu.
Originally known as Anrakuji, Dazaifu Tenmangu was established to enshrine Michizane. After the first mausoleum was built during the Engi era, the temple was gradually developed by central nobles who were appointed to Dazaifu, and Sugawara no Michizane came to be revered as the deity of scholarship and learning. During the Heian period, this temple owned more than 40 estates and reached its peak.
However, during the Sengoku period, the shrine was frequently involved in conflicts, leading to its destruction by fire. It fell into disrepair for a time. Overcoming this period, the main shrine was rebuilt by Kobayakawa Takakage, who became the lord of Chikuzen Province during Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s era. Further restoration efforts were made by the Kuroda clan during the Edo period.
Today, Dazaifu Tenmangu is cherished by many worshippers as a shrine dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane. The legend of Michizane, associated with the plum blossoms, symbolizes his legacy as the god of learning. The relationship between Dazaifu and Sugawara no Michizane forms an important chapter in Japanese history and culture, and this story continues to be passed down to many people.
(Image Citation: 大宰府公式HP)
The Highlights of Dazaifu
Now, let's take a look at the highlights of Dazaifu. If you are planning to visit Dazaifu, make sure to check out these highlights before you go.
Main Shrine
The Main Shrine of Dazaifu Tenmangu is recognized as one of Japan's important cultural properties due to its unique architectural style and historical background. Built in the distinctive "Gokensha Nagare-zukuri" style, this Main Shrine stands out with its six pillars at the front, unlike the more commonly seen "Sangensha Nagare-zukuri" style shrines that typically have three pillars. This feature makes the Main Shrine a rare example of shrine architecture in Japan.
The history of the Main Shrine begins with its construction by imperial order from Emperor Daigo at the burial site of Sugawara no Michizane. After several instances of being destroyed by fire and subsequently rebuilt, the current Main Shrine was constructed in 1591. Its majestic presence symbolizes the scenery of Dazaifu Tenmangu and continues to captivate visitors. Along with its picturesque colors, this Main Shrine conveys the beauty of traditional Japanese architecture to this day.
(Image Citation: ZIPANG TOKYO 2020)
Shinji-ike, Taiko-bashi, and Hirabashi
The "Shinji-ike" (Heart Character Pond) in Dazaifu has a unique shape resembling the cursive form of the character for "heart" (心). The curves and floating islands along the pond's shore form this character, providing a sense of tranquility to visitors. Three beautiful bridges span the pond, each symbolizing the past, present, and future. These three bridges represent the Buddhist concept of the three temporal realms (sansei ichinen), and crossing them is believed to cleanse the mind of the impurities of these realms and purify the heart.
Among them, the "Taiko-bashi" (Drum Bridge) has an arching shape reminiscent of a drum, a design known for its distinctive appearance in both Japan and China. The vibrant red color of the Taiko-bashi and the Hirabashi (Flat Bridge) stands out vividly against the lush green trees, enhancing the beauty of the Shinji-ike.
Shinji-ike and its bridges serve not only as beautiful structures but also as places where visitors can cleanse their hearts and find spiritual tranquility. This location holds special meaning for those seeking to reflect on themselves and seek inner peace, away from the hustle and bustle of daily life.
(Image Citation: るるぶ&more。)
Josui's Well
In Dazaifu, there is a historical landmark called "Josui's Well." This name is derived from Kuroda Kanbei, a renowned military commander of the Sengoku period and a close aide to Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who took the name "Josui" when he became a monk. Kuroda Kanbei was not only a military genius but also had a deep understanding of culture, being well-versed in cultural activities of the time, including the tea ceremony.
Kuroda Kanbei temporarily resided in Dazaifu and is said to have used the water from Josui's Well for daily life and tea ceremonies during his stay. He deeply revered Sugawara no Michizane and contributed to the restoration of Dazaifu Tenmangu. Therefore, Josui's Well is an important spot that tells the story of the relationship between Kuroda Kanbei and Dazaifu Tenmangu.
Visitors can reflect on Kuroda Kanbei's life and the cultural heritage he left behind through Josui's Well. This well is not just a water source; it is a place where people can feel the history and culture of Dazaifu and the spirit of Kuroda Kanbei, making it cherished by many.
(Image Citation: 三好不動産)
Sacred Ox Statues
Within the grounds of Dazaifu Tenmangu, there are eleven "sacred ox statues" quietly standing, believed to grant wisdom to visitors. It is believed that touching their heads will bestow wisdom, and many worshippers gently stroke their heads with their wishes in mind. There is a deep connection between Sugawara no Michizane and oxen, and this belief has an interesting story behind it.
According to legend, the ox carrying Sugawara no Michizane’s remains suddenly lay down and refused to move at a certain spot. Michizane's disciples built his tomb at that location, and later the "Main Shrine" was constructed there. This historical episode is why all the sacred ox statues at Dazaifu Tenmangu are depicted in a reclining position.
(Image Citation: ふらっと大宰府 歴史探訪の旅)
Starbucks
The Starbucks located on the Omotesando of Dazaifu Tenmangu draws the attention of visitors with its Japanese-style design. This store, designed by the world-renowned architect Kengo Kuma, was created with the concept of "a design that does not disrupt the historic atmosphere of Dazaifu Tenmangu." It is an environmentally friendly structure built solely from wood without using any nails.
The design of the store incorporates approximately 2,000 cedar wood pieces arranged diagonally, creating an organic space that allows light and wind to flow through. This wooden lattice not only provides warmth but also serves as a sturdy support for the structure. The total length of the wooden framework covering the interior is an impressive 4 kilometers, with the traditional woodworking seamlessly continuing to the back of the store, captivating visitors.
Kengo Kuma's design philosophy of "combining tradition and modernity with natural materials" is also evident in this Starbucks. The space harmonizes the warmth of wood with a natural sense of openness, attracting many people. The entrance and the back of the store are fully glassed, creating a sense of openness through the view of the front and rear gardens.
Dazaifu Tenmangu is home to a sacred white plum tree over a thousand years old, and Kengo Kuma intended to incorporate the beauty of this nature into the architecture. Large windows offer a view of the plum tree, allowing sunlight to illuminate the interior, making it bright enough to eliminate the need for extra lighting.
While the plum tree planted in the back garden represents a connection with nature, the front garden facing the Omotesando evokes a connection with the city. This Starbucks, which merges the historical background of Dazaifu Tenmangu with modern technology, stands as a unique store that respects the environment and local culture.
(Image Citation: 隈研吾建築都市設計事務所HP)
Trivia about Dazaifu
Lastly, let's take a look at some trivia about Dazaifu. This time, the focus is mainly on trivia related to Sugawara no Michizane, who has a strong connection to Dazaifu, but it's very interesting, so please read on.
Sugawara no Michizane and Plum Poems
Sugawara no Michizane and plum blossoms are an inseparable and very famous theme associated with Dazaifu. Sugawara no Michizane was an outstanding scholar and politician of the Heian period, as well as a renowned poet. His deep affection for plum blossoms is evident from anecdotes from his lifetime. Consequently, the relationship between Michizane and plum blossoms has become highly symbolic, influencing many literary works and legends.
The waka poems Michizane left behind about plums convey his rich emotions and special affection for plum blossoms. The two introduced poems are excellent examples, imbued with beauty and deep feelings.
The first poem, "Utsukushiya beni no iro naru ume no hana akoga kao ni mo tsuketaku zo aru," praises the vivid beauty of plum blossoms and expresses a pure desire to imbue his own face with their color. It is said that this poem was composed when Michizane was five years old, demonstrating his prodigious talent. To be able to compose such a poem at the age of five indicates his exceptional brilliance.
Another poem, "Kochi fukaba nioi okoseyo ume no hana aruji nashi tote haru na wasureso," was composed when his exile to Dazaifu was decided. It expresses his poignant feelings along with his farewell to the plum blossoms. This poem conveys the sorrow Michizane felt in parting from the plum trees and his wish for them to remember him with the arrival of spring.
These poems symbolize the reason why plum trees hold a special place at Dazaifu Tenmangu. Indeed, there are many plum trees at Dazaifu Tenmangu, serving as a place to remember Sugawara no Michizane and his poems about plum blossoms. This poem is very famous, and a stone monument inscribed with it stands at Dazaifu Tenmangu.
(Image Citation: Japaaan magazine)
The Legend of the Flying Plum Tree and Dazaifu
Dazaifu Tenmangu is home to many legends, but the story of the "Flying Plum Tree" (Tobiume) is particularly touching. This sacred tree, located to the right of the main shrine, has a deep connection with Sugawara no Michizane. It is said that when Michizane was unjustly exiled from Kyoto to Dazaifu, he bid farewell to the plum tree in his garden with the poem: "When the east wind blows, let it send your fragrance. Oh, plum blossoms, do not forget the spring, even though your master is gone."
In response to this deep affection, the legend tells that the plum tree, yearning for Michizane, flew overnight to Dazaifu. Since then, this plum tree has been known as the "Flying Plum Tree" and has been cherished as a sacred tree. The Flying Plum Tree belongs to the "Irotamagaki" variety and is known for blooming very early. It blooms ahead of other plum trees in the precincts of Dazaifu Tenmangu, heralding the arrival of spring.
The plums harvested from the Flying Plum Tree are extremely precious and are treasured as the "Flying Plum Charm" (Tobiume Omamori), a once-in-a-lifetime talisman. This charm is believed to grant special power and bring good fortune to its bearer.
(Image citation: 暦生活)
Sugawara no Michizane and Oxen
The relationship between Sugawara no Michizane and oxen is one of the intriguing themes in Japanese history. Born in the 12th year of the Jōwa era (845), Sugawara no Michizane was born in the year of the Ox according to the Chinese zodiac. This is one of the reasons why reclining ox statues are enshrined at Tenmangu shrines dedicated to Michizane. Additionally, the legend that Michizane was born on the "day of the Ox in the hour of the Ox in the year of the Ox" further highlights his special connection with oxen.
After Michizane was exiled to Dazaifu, he passed away within two years. The story goes that when his remains were being transported to be buried in Kyushu, the ox pulling the coffin suddenly stopped and refused to move, leading to the construction of his tomb at that spot. This place is now known as Dazaifu Tenmangu, which is why most of the ox statues at Tenmangu shrines are reclining oxen.
Moreover, during Michizane’s time in the capital, there is an episode where he took in and raised a stray calf with great care, indicating a special bond between him and oxen. Although the calf later went missing, it is said to have reappeared and helped Michizane when he was attacked by assassins on his way to exile in Dazaifu.
(Image Citation: ぶるすけワールド)
Why is Sugawara no Michizane called the god of learning?
The background behind Sugawara no Michizane becoming widely revered as the god of learning is deeply connected to a series of events that occurred during his lifetime and after his death. Michizane was a renowned scholar who was unjustly exiled from the capital. Despite his unfortunate fate, he continued to diligently fulfill his duties. After his death, a series of unfortunate incidents occurred in the capital, which came to be seen as Michizane's curse or the work of his vengeful spirit. As a result, he was initially regarded with great fear by the people.
However, over time, the perception of Michizane began to change. His remarkable scholarship in Kyoto and his acceptance of his fate, continuing his studies and duties after his exile, came to be re-evaluated. Particularly, the story of Michizane climbing to the top of a mountain to pray not for revenge against those who wronged him but for the happiness of the world and to assert his innocence, captured people's hearts. This background led to a shift in his image from a "fearsome vengeful spirit" to a "revered god of learning."
Moreover, the term "Tenjin" did not originally refer exclusively to Sugawara no Michizane. However, as the belief in him spread, the association of "Tenjin" with "Sugawara no Michizane" became common. This widespread teaching aimed to make the concept easier for people to understand, and today, the idea of "Tenjin" equating to "Sugawara no Michizane" and "the god of learning" is widely accepted.
(Image Citation: るるぶ&more。)
Summary
How was it? This time, we explored the history of Dazaifu, its connection with Sugawara no Michizane, highlights, and trivia. Until the Heian period, Dazaifu served as a hub for foreign diplomacy. However, after Sugawara no Michizane was exiled to Dazaifu and later feared as a vengeful spirit, he came to be worshipped as the god of learning. We hope this information will be helpful for those planning to visit Dazaifu or considering a trip to Fukuoka.
Our website also introduces other interesting aspects of Japanese history and culture besides Dazaifu. If you are interested, please check out our other articles!
